The Symptoms Of A Dog In Heat

There are several symptoms of a dog in heat and it is very important to pay attention to them if you want your female dog to mate and produce puppies. In the paragraphs below, we are going to tell you about the symptoms of a dog in heat.

"Heat" is also referred to as the Estrus and is the mating period of a female dog. When estrus happens, the dog will go in season. The Estrus period occurs every six months and lasts for about three weeks. During this heat period, if the female mates with a male companion it may become pregnant.

The Estrus Cycle starts with the Proetrus period. This period is characterized with the start of vaginal bleeding. And normally lasts of a maximum of nine days and a minimum of four days. During this period male dogs around here may really want to mate, but she should not mate with them just yet.

During the second part which is the Estrus period the female will now accept the male and conception may happen. This period lasts for a maximum of 13 days and the vaginal discharge may become yellow during this time.

The first sign though of a female coming into season would be the vulva swelling. This swelling may happen a week before the bleeding occurs or maybe even as late as a day before. Other signs of heat are behavioral changes which may include humping of your leg, or other dogs and she may start to lick herself a lot too.

During the Estrus period, when the female will now accept the male suitors, she will have a very strong distinct smell that male dogs from afar will be able to recognize. Here the discharge would've changed from a red color to a yellow one. She will also be willing to stand for the male and will normally hold her tail off to the right or to the left. This is known as flagging and she may even take her rear and back it up to your leg.

If you have a male dog, he will be able to tell when the female is fertile although you can estimate as it is usually about a fortnight after the bleeding begins. The male will regularly check, whether she if fertile or not. The "heat" symptom that should alert you the most is the frequent urinating, especially if you do not want her to conceive just yet (You must never allow her to mate during the first and second heat periods because she is still immature). When the female goes on urinating from spot to spot she is giving the "go ahead" signal to the males to come and mate with her. So if you take her out to the park and she urinates everywhere expect a bunch of male dogs to be visiting your home in the near future.

If you want to confirm the heat cycle of your dog you must visit a vet and he/she can confirm the changes that are taking place inside her. The vet can also advise you on what you may want to do during this time.

These are the most common symptoms of a dog in heat. Don't worry when your dog starts displaying these symptoms as it is only natural for it to do so.

Read More

Dog Heat Stroke - Signs, Prevention and Heat Safety Tips

As the weather heats up across the country, one of the hottest topics for pet parents is preventing heat stroke and other heat related health issues. But, even the most loving pet parent can sometimes underestimate the effect the warmer weather (especially a drastic heat wave) can have on their canine companions.

While on a walk yesterday, I passed a woman with a baby in a stroller, two older children and a dog. Everyone looked hot, but none more so that the dog who was waddling behind the stroller, straining against the leash and exerting what seemed to be a lot of effort to try and keep up. It was clear the dog was suffering. I approached the woman to see if I could help out. Of course, I was wary of being too pushy as I didn't want her to be offended that I was offering unsolicited advice and to walk away without understanding that her dog looked to be in need of help. So, I began by asking her what mix her dog was and his age. I then mentioned that I had a friend with a dog of a similar type (a Pekingese mix) and from my experience they don't do well in warm weather. I knelt down to invite the dog over to me and he stepped right into the shaded area I created and laid down. The dog seemed fine with letting me pet him.

I wasn't sure if this was his normal demeanor or due to the fact that he might be too hot and tired to care. Regardless, I took it as an opportunity to take a look at his gums. The color looked a bit redder than is typical so I pointed it out to the woman. Luckily, she seemed very receptive. She said she knew her dog was hot, after all we all were. But, she didn't seem to understand how much more susceptible her dog was to suffering from the heat. She clearly had her hands full, so I stayed with her while she called her veterinarian who suggested she come in so they could check the dog's condition. I was glad to hear they were located just a few minutes away. She carried her dog off and had the oldest child push the stroller as they headed to their car.

Dogs have a relatively inefficient cooling system. Unlike humans who sweat through their skin to cool down, dogs release heat primarily through panting and through the pads of their feet. As a result of not being well equipped to dissipate or expel heat, dogs are highly susceptible to heat stroke. Heat stroke can cause brain damage, vital organ failure, and even death. In addition to their lack of a good cooling system, most dogs don't tend to have a strong awareness of when they have pushed themselves too far. This is especially true when they are trying to keep up with their human buddies. Therefore, it is important to be aware of the signs of heat stroke and vigilant about prevention.

Some Signs of Heat Stroke:

• Heavy or rapid panting 

• Bright red tongue 

• Red or pale gums 

• Increased salivation 

• Thick saliva 

• Weakness, lethargy, and/or disorientation 

• Vomiting and/or diarrhea

Tips if Your Dog Shows Signs of Heat Stroke:

• Move them to a shady, cooler area. 

• Contact your veterinarian. 

• Offer water. 

• Begin cooling them gradually with tepid or cool water. Avoid using cold water as this may inhibit circulation and gradual cooling. If possible, using a fan as you gradually cool with water may help. 

• Even if your dog seems more comfortable, take them to the veterinarian as delayed reactions to heat stroke may develop.

Tips for Preventing Heat Stroke:

• Avoid vigorous exercise and play outside on warm days. Instead, plan time for play indoors or in a cooler outdoor area early in the morning or later in the day when the temperature is safer for such activity. This will also help your dog avoid the risk of sunburn.

• Avoid walking your dog for prolonged periods on concrete. This type of surface can heat up more quickly than grassy areas and will reflect the heat from the ground causing your dog to become hotter more quickly.

• Heat related issues are common in the first days of warmer weather when a dog hasn't had an opportunity to become acclimated to the weather. So, be especially careful during this period.

• Be especially cautious with dogs that are more susceptible to heat related issues such as brachycephalic dogs (short nosed dogs such as Bulldogs, Pugs, Shih Tzus, and Mastiffs), puppies, elderly dogs, dogs suffering from obesity and other medical issues.

• Hydration is key. Be sure to bring plenty of water with you on walks with your dog. A good option is the Pet Top portable water bottle drinking adapter for pets which can be attached to most water bottles to make it easy for your dog to drink from them.

• Note that dogs can suffer from heat stroke even when they are not engaged in rigorous play. In fact, if the weather is warm enough, dogs can even suffer from heat stroke while swimming.

• Never leave your dog in a car unsupervised or in any area where they cannot stay cool.

• Provide your dog with a cool area to rest in the home.

• Offer your dog ice cubes or a durable, rubber chew toy that is filled with water and frozen to help keep them cool, occupied and happy.

• Get a cooling mat for your dog to rest on. Some options are: The Canine Cooler, CoolBody, Dog Cooling Pad from Sporting Dog Solutions, Duo Temp Dog Bed, Coll Bed III, Premier Ice Pod Cooling Pad.

• Chat with your veterinarian prior to clipping your dog's coat down to a 'Summer cut.' A dog's fur acts to insulate them from the cold, but also from the heat. Shaving a dog's coat too short could diminish their ability to stay cooler and make them more susceptible to sunburn.

The warm weather months can be a wonderful time for you and your dog to enjoy the outdoors. But, due to the possible seriousness of a dog's reaction to the heat, prevention and awareness is key to keeping your dog safe, healthy and happy.

Read More

Foods Not To Give To Your Dog

While it is tempting to share your food with your fury family member, you should be aware that many of the human foods are poisonous for dogs. You should avoid ordering foods for your dog from the below menu.

APPETIZERS

Baby Food- Many people try to give baby foods especially to pups when they are not feeling well. Baby foods are not bad in general. However, you should make sure the baby food you are giving does not contain any onion powder. Also, baby foods do not contain all the necessary nutrients for a healthy dog.

Chewing Gum- Most chewing gum contains a sugar called Xylitol which has no effects on humans. However, it can cause a surge of insulin in dogs that drops a dog's blood sugar to dangerous level. If your dog eats large amount of gums, it can damage liver, kidney or worse.

Candy - Many of the candies also contain Xylitol, the same type of sugar as Chewing gum. So, keep candies and chewing gums away from the reach of your dogs and puppies.

Chocolate - Chocolates are considered poisonous for dogs. Chocolates contain caffeine and theobromine which can be toxic for your dog. Chocolates can cause panting, vomiting, and diarrhea, and damage your dog's heart and nervous systems.

Corn on the cob- Dogs can eat Corn, but not the cob. Most dogs cannot digest cob easily, which can cause intestinal obstruction, a very serious and possibly fatal medical condition if not treated immediately.

Macadamia Nuts- Macadamia nuts also known as Australia Nuts can cause weakness, depression, vomiting, tremors and hyperthermia in dogs.

Mushrooms - Mushrooms are tricky. While some types of Mushrooms are fine, others can be toxic for dogs. Some types of mushrooms can cause serious stomach issues for dogs. As a cautious dog owner, you should try to avoid giving mushrooms to your dog.

Tobacco - Never give tobacco to your dog. The effects of nicotine on dogs are much more worse than humans. The toxic level of nicotine in dogs is 5 milligrams of nicotine per pound of body weight. In dogs, 10 mg/kg is potentially lethal.

Cooking dough- Raw bread dough made with live yeast can be hazardous if ingested by dogs. When raw dough is swallowed, the warm, moist environment of the stomach provides an ideal environment for the yeast to multiply, resulting in an expanding mass of dough in the stomach. Expansion of the stomach may be severe enough to decrease blood flow to the stomach wall, resulting in the death of tissue.

Rotten food-Spoiled food have mold and other bacteria which can cause serious damage to your dog's health.

MAIN ENTRIES

Cooked Bones- While raw bones are beneficial for your dog's teeth, cooked bones can be dangerous for your pup. Cooked bones are more brittle, which means it is highly likely they might splinter and cause internal injury to your dog.

Cat Food- A little cat food eaten by your dog may not be an issue. However, you feed cat food regularly to your dog, it can cause some health issues. Cat foods usually have higher level of protein and fat which are not healthy for dogs.

Fat Trimmings- Meat fat trimmings, cooked or raw can cause pancreatitis in dogs.

Liver - Feeding liver occasionally might be OK, but do not feed too much liver to your dog. Excessive consumption of liver can adversely affect your dog's muscles and bones.

Yeast - As mentioned earlier, too much of yeast could rupture your dog's stomach and intestines.

Dairy Products- Some dogs would be fine with dairy products. However, dogs generally have relatively poor levels of tolerance to lactose which is found in milk. As a result, it can cause diarrhea and other digestive issues.

DRINKS

Alcohol - You should not even let your dog taste any kind of alcohol, let alone consume it in large quantity. The main ingredients used in beer, wine, and other alcoholic beverages are toxics and dangerous for dogs. Alcohol can cause poor breathing, abnormal acidity, intoxication, lack of coordination and even coma and/or death for a dog.

Coffee - Too much Coffee can be poisonous for your dog. Common signs of a coffee overdose include vomiting, tremors, restlessness and rapid heart rate. In severe cases, seizures can appear. It's possible for dogs to collapse if high amounts of caffeine have been consumed.

Milk - Many dogs especially puppy drink milk. Most dogs may not experience any issues with milk, but some dogs may be intolerant to lactose found in milk. Dogs allergic to lactose may experience upset tummy and other allergic reactions after drinking milk.

Citrus Oil Extracts- Oil extracts from citrus fruits such as oranges, lemons and limes can cause irritation in your dogs digestive system especially if consumed in large quantities. Dogs may experience diarrhea, vomiting, drooling, and trembling.

FRUITS AND SALADS

Apple Seeds- Apple seeds contain amygdlin, a form of cyanide. It can hinder blood from carrying oxygen throughout the body. Keep your pup away from apple seeds.

Avocado - Avocado fruit, its pit and plant are toxic for dogs. Avocado damages heart, lung and other tissue in dogs in addition to stomach upset, vomiting and pancreatitis.

Grapes & Raisins- Dogs usually get allergic reactions after eating grapes and raising. Dogs may experience vomiting, fatigue, diarrhea, and possibly kidney failure.

Onions - Onions are dangerous for dogs. Try to avoid feeding onions (raw or cooked) to your dog. If the dog eats a small amount of onions every day for many days, it may gradually develop anemia over weeks to months.

Chives - Chives can cause hemolysis, anemia, or hemoglobinuria in your dog. Some of the symptoms of too much chives consumption include weakness, lethargy, pale mucous membranes and discolored (red to brown) urine.

Peaches - Dogs may not experience any issues if they just consume peach flesh. However, pits of peaches are toxic to dogs. They may cause your dog to experience dilated pupils, dizziness and excessive drooling.

Plums - Stems, leaves, and seeds of plums are toxic for dogs. Dogs may experience brick red mucous membranes, dilated pupils, difficulty breathing, panting, and shock.

Tomato Leaves - The leaves of a tomato plant contain the glycoalkaloids alpha-tomatine and dehydrotomatine which are toxic for dogs. Some of the symptoms of eating tomato leaves include; drooling, stomach upset, diarrhea, vomiting and changes in his behavior. Tremors or seizures could also occur if your pup has consumed too much tomato leaves.

FISH

Raw Fish / Fish in general- Some amount of fish in your dog's diet may not cause any issues. However, If fish are fed exclusively or in high amounts to your dog can result in a thiamine (a B vitamin) deficiency leading to loss of appetite, seizures, and in severe cases, death.

SIDE DISH

Human vitamins- Some human vitamins can be toxic for pets, in particular those that are fat soluble like vitamins A, D and E. Also, iron tablets can damage the digestive system lining, and prove poisonous for the liver and kidneys of your dog. So, keep your vitamins away from your dog especially puppies.

Human Snacks- Some of the human snacks might use ingredients such as onion and garlic powder, raisins, chocolate which could be toxic for dogs. Try to give your furry friend snacks and treats made just for them instead of sharing yours.

If your dog has an emergency after eating or drinking something, please call your veterinarian immediately.

Read More

9 Things You Can Do Now to Keep Your Dog Safer

Shih Tzu happens and dogs get lost. You think it won't happen to your dog, but it happens every single day. Our dogs can't navigate all the dangers around them, they rely on us to keep them safe. Short of keeping them locked in a bubble, how can we keep our pets safe? These 9 tips can help you keep them safe.

TAGS + MICROCHIP = Get Home Safe. It amazes me how many people remove a dog's collar for one reason or another; they don't like the noise it makes when the dog shakes, they bathe the dog and forget to put the collar back on, or any number of other reasons. I'm also amazed at how easily a dog can slip out of a collar or harness when highly motivated. I have seen terrified pooches slip out of collars and harnesses as their flight drive kicks in. Your dog should always wear a collar with updated tags. If a collar breaks off, which is not uncommon, a microchip can identify your pet. A microchip is tiny and takes only seconds to put in. Any veterinarian or shelter can scan for a microchip. It's administered similarly to a vaccination, any vet can do it and most shelters offer it for about half the price of a vet, which ranges from approximately $20 - $75. Do you love your dog twenty bucks worth? Micro chipping and a collar with tags together can make the difference between your pet being linked back to you and getting home safe... or not. Make certain you update your phone number and address with the Microchip company if you move. Nothing screams "I've been abandoned" louder than a dog with no collar and tags. People will often pick up a dog wandering around without a collar and tags. If they like the dog enough, they may justify keeping him to themselves. A good samaritan may think your dog is abandoned or lost and deliver him right to the nearest animal shelter.

PLAN AHEAD FOR UNEXPECTED OCCURRENCES IN YOUR HOME. When something unsettling is happening in the house it can stress your dog out and potentially cause him to run off and get lost. Dogs may become frightened if workmen are in the home doing work, if furniture and boxes are being packed up for moving day, or a group of family or friends unexpectedly visit the home. Guests or workers often inadvertently leave doors or gates open long enough for a dog to slip out. Leave your dog with a trusted family member or friend, place him in doggie day camp, or board him until the household is calm and back to normal.

KEEP YOUR DOG LEASHED. I know people love to let their dogs off leash so they can be "free to run", but don't take chances. If signs tell you to keep your dog leashed, please keep her leashed. Not only can your dog get enticed by a number of small animals, people running, or other distractions and take off, but off leash dogs can be picked up by Animal Control in public places where they are supposed to be leashed. An unleashed dog is scary to most people, even the authorities. They don't know that your dog is loving and friendly and is only bounding towards them at warp speed to say hi. Their reaction might be to defend themselves against your sweet pooch. Don't let your beloved dog become a statistic - always obey leash laws and regulations both close to home and everywhere else.

PAY ATTENTION AT THE DOG PARK!I love taking my dogs to the dog park and I enjoy chatting with the other dog moms and dads there. My girl Isis loves to greet new dogs as they enter the park, so I'm always on guard if she gets close to the gate. Lots of dogs are just like Isis, they love to crowd the entry gate as new dogs enter. It's easy for someone to open the gate and not realize, or not care, that your dog has slipped out while you are at the other end of the park deep in conversation with other dog parents. It only takes a second for a dog to slip through the gate and run off.

TEACH THE WAIT AND EMERGENCY RECALL COMMANDS. In addition to teaching your dog to reliably come when called, teach the "wait" command and have an "emergency recall" command. These simple commands can save your dog's life. If your dog spots a bird, squirrel, or other moving object they may dart across a street, hop a fence, or jump out of the car and lay chase for many blocks. They can be hit by a car, injure themselves while running, or quickly lose their sense of direction. Make sure your dog reliably comes when you call him. One of the keys to this is not calling your dog when it's time to leave the park, have a bath, or go to the vet. That can reduce their positive reaction to you calling them, so when it's bath or vet time rather than calling your dog to you, go and get him instead. Teach your dog to always wait at the door or inside the car until you give the go ahead for him to exit. In the event that something is just too enticing and your dog takes off, tuning you out, have an emergency recall command. This is a one or two word command that immediately snaps them to attention and makes them run right to you because the reward for coming to you is irresistible. My dogs' emergency recall is "Danger! Danger!" They know that whenever they hear that phrase they will receive delicious bacon. It is the only time they get bacon, which is what makes it different from the "Come!" command I use on a near daily basis. It really gets their attention, even if there's a squirrel in their sights!

PARTY HEARTY BUT SAFELY. If you throw a party, keep your pet in mind as you plan the party. Graduations, birthdays, and holiday parties are wonderful occasions that enrich our lives. However we can easily get distracted while hosting our event. Pets can find it unsettling to see their home fill up with people, some of whom they don't know. Fireworks on the 4th of July and trick-or-treaters on Halloween can be especially frightening to pets. Loud noises and people wearing hats or costumes are things that many pets find scary. Have a plan to keep your dog safe and secure during parties. This is another good time to consider boarding, pet sitting, or day camp. If you don't want to remove your pet from family festivities, designate one person to keep an eye on the dog at all times. Don't load that person up with other party duties as well. If you decide to just lock your dog in another room, place a large sign on the door to ensure no one opens it by mistake, and check on the dog often!

AN UNATTENDED DOG IS AN INVITATION FOR DISASTER. If gardeners, housekeepers, or workers of any kind are in your home or yard be sure to double check that all doors and fences have been secured after they leave. Every time. Don't expect them to reliably remember to close & latch gates or doors - ultimately it's your pet and your responsibility, not theirs. Never leave your dog unattended in the yard, in the car, or tied up outside a store. It's a sad fact that not only do dogs get lost every day, but they get stolen every day as well. According to Petfinder, http://www.Petfinder.comas many as 2 million animals are stolen each year. We have even had puppies stolen from the shelter! What kind of person would steal an animal from a shelter? What kind of person would break into your car and steal your dog? What kind of person would steal your dog right out of your yard? What kind of person would reach over to pet your dog outside a store, unclip their leash and make off with him? Your dog doesn't need to be an expensive purebred to tempt unscrupulous people to justify snatching him. "My girlfriend always wanted a dog like this". "I got it for my Mom, she's lonely". "They left that poor dog tied up in the yard, hot/cold car, or outside a store, they're cruel and don't deserve him". Don't give unscrupulous, misguided people any opportunity to steal your precious dog!

NEVER, EVER LEAVE YOUR DOG ALONE IN A CAR. A dog can quickly get into trouble when left alone in a car. They can get heat exhaustion or freeze in only a few minutes. They can also be stolen out of your car. In addition, in many states you can be charged with Animal Cruelty for leaving your dog unattended in a car. That could cost you a bundle, it's not worth it. On a recent trip we were at a gas station. A woman and her daughter left their Chihuahua in the car with the windows open a few inches. As soon as they went inside the dog jumped right out the window, narrowly missing a truck pulling out. The poor little thing just needed to relieve himself and just couldn't wait long enough for them to return. Their dog was nearly flattened by that truck! They should have taken turns going inside to use the restroom instead.

SPAY AND NEUTER!Spaying and neutering your dog will help prevent the enormous number of unwanted puppies that end up in shelters every Spring and Summer, which is puppy and kitten season at shelters. Neutering reduces your dog's desire to get out and roam the neighborhood, and can reduce unwarranted aggression between males. Dogs that are spayed/neutered have fewer health issues as well. Spaying and neutering can also curtail theft, since a dog that is spayed or neutered cannot be bred for profit, which is a goal of some thieves. You don't have to wait for a dog to be a certain age to spay/neuter, they just need to be about 4 pounds in weight. There are many common myths about spaying and neutering. For example, people used to think it was healthier to wait until a dog has her first heat or her first litter, but that is a myth. Also, the risk of an unwanted litter gets higher the longer you wait to spay a dog. A male dog can scent a female in heat from as far as 3 miles away! Check out the Humane Society's web site, http://www.Humanesociety.org, for more reasons to spay and neuter and to see a list of common myths about spaying and neutering.

Practice these safety tips to keep your precious dog safe at all times!

Read More

Top 5 Skills to Teach Your Dog - Teaching Youngsters and Oldsters Alike

It's Spring and now that the snow has melted (for most of us), many would-be dog owners are turning their attention to rescue lists, shelters and breeders. As I look at my own dog, a 10 year old Labrador Retriever named Lincoln curled up on the couch next to me, I cannot help but think about the time when she will no longer be around. Who will come after her? I find myself vacillating back and forth between pup or older dog, pure bred or mixed breed. Though I may be unclear about which direction I would go in choosing a dog, I know for certain which skills that I would like to teach my new dog-any dog for that matter, be she young or old.

Before I go into what I would consider my top five skills for dogs, I think it's important to understand some of the things that may influence how you teach a particular skill. Factors such as age, confidence, physical limitations, and motivation will each play a part in how you train. Let's address each one of these factors individually.

• Age: Puppies are blank slates and have had less time to rehearse and commit to unwanted behaviors. You can have real influence on a puppy by insuring that he or she has the continued opportunity to interact with other puppies and dogs after they leave their litter and by purposefully introducing them to as many sights, sounds and smells as you can (in a non threatening way) to help to create a confident, social animal. By managing their environment, you can keep unwanted behaviors from happening in the first place. But a puppy can be tough. They have limited concentration, they chew and eliminate indiscriminately and they require lots and lots of attention.
• If you choose to adopt an older dog, you may have to spend some time resolving and managing problem behaviors first. Your ability to socialize a dog beyond its "critical period" (to 12 weeks) is limited, so while you may be able to influence somewhat your dog's confidence, pretty much what you see is what you get. But unlike puppies an older dog may already have progressed through their super destructive chew period and with proper supervision should have the capacity to be easily housetrained.
• Training an adolescent dog comes with its own set of challenges. Dogs hit adolescence around 5 months and adolescence can last until the dog is two or three depending on the breed and individual animal. Adolescence is characterized by more independent thinking; dogs will become less interested in you and more interested in the environment. Dogs go through their final phase of teething during this time. There is also a fear period associated with this phase - confident dogs may suddenly turn shy and fearful. Acquiring an adolescent dog will require that you be consistent in your management and training. Doing so will insure that you both make it through this time happy and whole.
• Confidence or the lack thereof: Learning is stressful. Keep an eye on your dog while training and watch for signs of stress - yawning, bows, scratching in the middle of a training session, shake-offs (like the dog is trying to shake off water). These behaviors don't necessarily indicate that your dog is unduly traumatized by learning, in fact, there is a good type of stress (called eustress) that actually enhances learning. Distress, the bad kind of stress, is what you are trying to avoid. You can do that by keeping your training sessions short (three to five minutes for newbies). Raise your criteria gradually, for example, if you are working on a down-stay with the dog alone in the kitchen and you are asking for a 30 second stay, if you bring the dog outdoors to work on a stay understand this context will be much more difficult for the dog to perform in. Perhaps you work on a 5 second stay to begin with. Don't make things so difficult for your dog that he gives up. Set your dog up to be successful. The mores successes your dog has under his doggy belt, the more confident he will become. You will see an animal that loves learning and will therefore be more inclined to work for you even in the most difficult kind of situations. Avoiding stress will keep your dog engaged in the training process.
• Physical limitations: A dog's capacity to perform certain tasks can be limited by physical impairments. Limitations such as deafness and blindness would be obvious impediments (but not insurmountable, by the way) but something like advanced age or lameness or injury may also inhibit certain behaviors or the capacity to process information. With an older dog you may need to modify your expectations. Does advanced age prohibit your elderly dog from being able to sit? Perhaps you teach her a solid down stay instead. Take your time, allow the old girl enough time to process information. Contrary to popular belief, you CAN teach an old dog new tricks.
• Motivation: To teach a new skill, your dog needs to be motivated to learn. It's up to you to figure out what will motivate your dog to want to work with you in any given situation. If it's hot dogs, fantastic - use them. If it's butt scratches - great, use them. If it's a game of tug - use that. Whatever it is that you use to reward behavior, the dog gets to determine whether your "stuff" is worth working for. A simple rule to remember - if you reward behavior, you should see more of it. So, if you are using biscuits to reward "come" and the dog comes to you once and never again that's a problem. Try something else. Adjust to each training situation.

Now that we've covered some of the things that may influence how you train, let's talk about what to train. When I began my dog training career in 1997, I started out by training service dogs. A service dog is an animal that has been trained to assist his disabled partner with such specialized tasks such as picking up dropped items, finding lost keys or even reminding their partner to take their medications. It takes many months and hundreds of hour's worth of training to teach the skills that a dog will need to become a service dog.

While most pet dog owners don't require that level of training for their dog, I do believe that the average dog owner would like their dog to have the same kind of self-restraint that any person with a disability expects from his or her working dog.

Here is my list of the five most critical skills I would want any dog to learn.

1. Default sit:The very first thing I would teach any new canine charge is a default sit. I'll be honest here-I'm not crazy about dogs that jump all over me. Not many people are-even the most enthusiastic dog lover. Bearing that in mind, I would start right away to teach my dog that it is more beneficial to sit rather than to jump. Sitting is incompatible with jumping. A dog simply cannot sit and jump at the same time.
3. To do this, I would first want to set the dog up so that he or she can't make many (or preferably any) paws on people mistakes. I would make sure my dog was either on a leash or on a tether whenever new people were around. This takes the anxiety out of any human/dog interaction. It means that you no longer have to worry about whether your dog will jump on someone because she/he can't.
5. Next, I would begin the task of teaching the sit. I would want to make sure that I always had some very high value rewards on hand to help ensure that my dog will want to work with me even if there are exciting things happening all around him or her. Since my goal is to teach the dog to automatically sit whenever new people appear, I would refrain from telling or asking my dog to sit (he/she might not choose to respond anyway and I wouldn't want to inadvertently teach my dog to ignore my commands) but rather allow the dog to explore his or her options. Each time the dog chose to sit, I would follow that sit with a tasty treat because I understand that any behavior that is rewarded should happen more often. You need to be patient during this process. It can take a bit of time before the dog figures out that it is the sitting that is getting him the tasty treats. Once my dog became more reliable about responding to each new person that came along with a sit, I would begin to work on teaching my dog or pup to maintain his or her sit for longer and longer periods of time.
7. Chill on a mat:This is one of my favorite skills to teach. The idea is that you will be able to send your dog over to a portable mat (like a bath mat or towel) where he or she will lie down and remain until released. The little Goldendoodle pup (picture on the right? Picture on the left?) is 16 weeks old and he is lying on his mat in the middle of a soccer field with a team playing in the distance. What the photo doesn't show are the four other soccer teams on either side of him. He shows all of this skill at such a young age. What a good dog and what good parents he has to spend so much time teaching him how to behave in public places!
9. Come:We all want our dogs to come when called but a lot of dogs that I work with just don't. They are completely unreliable. You need to teach your dog that it is totally worth giving up whatever he or she is engaged with to come running to you. It is important to reinforce this behavior every time with a super tasty treat (if your dog is food motivated) or a game of tug (if your dog is play motivated).
11. If your dog isn't reliable, work on this skill with your dog on a long leash and then inside an enclosed area before ever trusting him off leash. If your dog does NOT come when he or she is called, whatever you do, don't nag him. Repeating commands is the quickest way to teach your dog to ignore you. Go and get her/him and go back to working with the dog on a line until he or she is more reliable.
13. Eye contact:Eye contact is a great way to teach your dog to keep his or her focus on you. I start this skill by rewarding my dog every time he or she chooses to look at me-on walks, at the dog park, when kids are around, in the house etc. I call these "check-ins". Check-ins are a great way to start to teach your dog or pup that it pays to look.
15. Leave it:Leave that alone! Don't mess with it. The purpose of this skill is to teach your dog to back away and not to touch anything that you've asked him or her not to. The "it" in question could be a cat, a hamburger bun, a sock. Imagine how handy that would be!

In closing, remember to dedicate some time to training your dog or pup. It's not fair to get angry with your dog for misbehaving if you haven't taken the time to teach your dog what is expected of him or her. No matter which skills you find important for your dog to learn, understand that behaviors need to be rewarded often and well and you will need to limit your dogs opportunity to make the wrong choices by using better management-head halters or no pull harnesses for a dog who pulls, leashes and tethers for jumpers and long lines for a dog who won't come when he or she is called. If you feel like you some additional help, you can search for a professional trainer in your area at http://www.apdt.com. Good luck!

Read More

How to Know When Your Dog Is Going Into Labor

If your bitch has been in 'season', which means she had an oestrus, and if she mated with a dog (or more than one) then there's a good chance that there are puppies in your future! It's exciting, but if you don't know much about when your dog is going to go into labour, it can also be daunting!

How Long Are Dogs Pregnant?

The first trick to predicting when your dog will go into labor is understanding how long dogs are pregnant. From the time that they mate, until the puppies are born, you are looking at around 63 days.

Of course, if you don't know exactly when your dog mated, because it was accidental, then you might not be able to pinpoint exactly when her puppies are due, but it's enough to know that dogs are pregnant for about two months, and to start looking for the signs of labor towards the end of that time.

Early Signs

The good news is that you don't have to guess when your dog is going to go into labor. Most dogs will give you plenty of signs that she'll be having her puppies soon, including:

• About a week before labor, your dog will start 'nesting.' She will look for a quiet corner of the home, and start moving objects blankets and toys into her nest.
• You may notice that your dog becomes more clingy, or that she seeks more 'alone time' in the days before whelping.
• Some dogs will have swollen nipples, although that's not always an accurate sign, and isn't always present.
• Your dog's vulva will swell a little during the days leading up to whelping.
• Your dog's temperature will fall about one degree Celsius in the day before whelping, although you'll only notice this if you take her temperature rectally!
• You will notice mucous in your dog's genital area - this is usually evident about a day before the first contractions start.

Once you've noticed all the signs, or many of them, it's safe to assume that whelping is imminent. Watch out for signs of contractions, and if you haven't already done so, move your bitch to a whelping box, or a quiet area of your home, away from other pets and children.

Remember that not all whelpings go smoothly, and if you have any suspicion that your dog is in distress, it's always best to contact your vet. Sometimes, caesareans or other medical interventions are necessary to ensure your dog, and her puppies' good health!

Read More

When Can a Dog Get Pregnant?

If you are a first time breeder, it isn't surprising if you find yourself a bit stymied when it comes to trying to breed your pet. On the other hand, maybe you don't ever want to breed your pet. No matter which camp you find yourself in, your first question is likely to be "when can a dog get pregnant?" Knowing the answer to this can be very useful to you, and your dog.

It first must be said that if you do not want to breed your pet, you are better off having them spayed at a young age. Spaying your dog will lessen their chances of uterine infections, uterine cancer, ovarian cancer, and breast cancer. If you do want to breed your pet, the question "when can a dog get pregnant?" is best answered through an understanding of the estrus cycle.

A dog does not go through menstruation. It goes through heat cycles. Most dogs will go through two heat cycles in one year. Larger dogs can go through a heat cycle every eight months (seemingly once a year), while smaller dogs can have varying heat cycles. Some veterinarians say that it depends on the breed of dog.

Dogs are considered sexually mature (when a dog can get pregnant) during its first estrus cycle. Sometimes this can happen a few months after birth (for smaller to medium sized dogs), and sometimes this can happen a year to two years after birth (for larger dogs.) Irregardless of how often or when it occurs, however, the phases of when a dog can get pregnant are the same.

The first phase of a dog's heat cycle is called the proestrus, the time of the bloody discharge. This is what is commonly noted as menstruation. A few days after the bloody discharge begins, the second phase known as the estrus begins. This is when the discharge becomes less bloody and turns pinkish until it becomes lighter and lighter (sometimes beige in color.) It is during this time that a dog can get pregnant. During this time, when a dog can get pregnant, your dog's vulva will swell slightly, and you will notice that she becomes stiff when a male dog is nearby.

Even if your dog can get pregnant during their first heat cycle, it is advisable that you do not breed them. For smaller dogs, their first heat cycle happens when they are still puppies, and this means they will not be able to support the pregnancy, often times unable to carry it to full term. Because of this, it is generally recommended (for all dogs) that a breeder wait till the second or third heat cycle before attempting to mate or breed their dog.

A pet owner who is serious about breeding their pet, should not only take note of when a dog can get pregnant, but they should also take note of who (which dog) they will be breeding their pet with. If you want to make sure the puppies come out perfectly, be sure your dog has gotten the proper vaccinations or necessary injections. Also, look up the lineage of your dog so that you can find a good match in terms of a mate.

Finally, make sure your dog eats correctly before, during, and after the pregnancy. A dog should have a well rounded, completely healthy diet during this time so as to assure an easy and successful pregnancy. Many veterinarians and dog breeders recommend putting your dog on a raw food diet, especially if you plan on breeding them. This will help them cope with the changes their body goes through during this period, and it will keep them healthy and happy!

Read More

How to Identify Your Dog Pregnancy Symptoms

Is your dog pregnant? There are some dog pregnancy signs and symptoms to help you find out if she is. The first question that should come into your mind is if she has recently been on 'heat.' Dogs reach sexual maturity as early as 6 months or as late as 16 months, depending on the breed and the individual dog. While this means that they are able to get pregnant, it advisable to know that a dog should not be no less than 18 to 24 months old before being pregnant.

The following list is the progressive signs of dog pregnancy. It is important to note that not every bitch will experience each and every symptom. It is usually the presence of a group of symptoms that gives owners a decent idea of whether their dog is truly pregnant.

1. Anything that deviates from your bitch's normal behavior might be an early indication of pregnancy. For example, a stand-offish bitch may suddenly become clingy, while a normally affectionate bitch may seek to be left alone.

2. Many bitches will experience a drop in their appetite during the first few weeks of pregnancy, becoming reluctant to eat anything. Eventually, their appetite returns with gusto and they will require nearly twice their normal amount of food to support the pups.

3. Some, but not all, bitches will vomit intermittently during the first few weeks of pregnancy. This can range from clear mucous to actual food. The use of the word "morning" can be a bit misleading since the vomiting can occur at any time of day.

4. Many females will show some level of breast development after a heat cycle. However, continued breast growth is a good indicator that a pregnancy is under way.

5. Many bitches will spend a good deal of their time resting, if not fully sleeping. This is mainly noticed during the early and final stages with the bitch rebounding a bit during mid-pregnancy.

6. This is natural and should only be cause for alarm if the discharge develops a foul odor or a brownish color. Green discharge, especially late in the pregnancy is usually a sign that a pup has defecated in uterus.

7. As the pregnancy progresses, the growing pups will naturally cause the bitch's abdomen to grow in size. This growth usually isn't noticeable until mid-pregnancy.

8. The continued breast development noted in early and mid-pregnancy typically leads to milk production during the last stage of gestation. However, some females won't produce milk until the puppies actually begin to nurse, so a lack of milk is nothing to worry about at this point.

9. Once the puppies reach decent size, they can be felt by gently laying your hand on your bitch's abdomen. You won't feel movement if the pups are asleep, so the best time to check is after your bitch has had some mild exercise, such as right after a walk.

The surest way to know if your dog is pregnant is to visit the vet. At 20-30 days post conception, an experienced vet will be able to feel the dog's abdomen and know if she is pregnant. 25 days after breeding, the vet will be able to detect fetuses with an ultrasound, and 45 days after breeding, the number of pups can be determined by an X-ray. A dog's pregnancy lasts, on average, 63 days. There is lots of room for variation in this, with some birthing as early as 54 days or as late as 74 days.

Read More